Ok, so it’s been awhile since posting on Far West Passage. But a trip after a Trip matters, and I want to share some images more than anything else. It’s not that these are great photos but they do document a rather unique moment in the high Sierra when tropical moisture found its way to the north state at an unusual time. I can only think of one other trip–to Dinkey Lakes in 2007–when it rained even a little bit. But this time, wow!
The usual backpacking scenario is to drive to the mountains in the mid-afternoon, skirting through Sacramento before rush-hour and then getting on the trail for an hour or so in order to acclimate at a higher elevation. Rain started outside of Pollock Pines and increased to a downpour by the time I reached the trailhead near Wright’s Lake. My pack was ready to shoulder and hit the trail, and I suppose I could have done it had I been equipped for heavy rain.
Instead, I waited 45 minutes in the car, then returned to Hwy 50 and found a room at Strawberry Flats Inn. A great decision, I must say. I could sleep listening to the sound a stream behind the inn, enjoy a sandwich from Albany, and generally relax, hoping that the morning would let me hike in.
It did, but there were no mountains to admire. Only a thick layer of clouds like a gauzy blanket draped upon the spectacular scenery. No matter. I had every confidence that, in a day or so, those clouds would lift and the grand show would begin. My main concern was getting to Island Lake and setting up camp before it started raining again. Fortunately, that’s exactly what I was able to do, with tent and supplies all secure by 1 p.m. when the mist turned to little drops. I was inside my cozy little tent, warm under a down sleeping bag, as it hailed, poured, thundered and flashed lightning. Wonderfully dramatic!
My entertainment during this afternoon of rain and storm was Barry Lopez’ “Desert Notes” about a very different landscape, yet one still demanding attention, a suspension of personality, and great patience to perceive properly. Any landscape has these prerequisites, even the high Sierra where beauty is abundantly visual and topographical, so much so that any sop can access moments of awe and delight.
The rain stopped around 4:30, allowing a quick reconoiter of the immediate vicinity, restaking the tent for the next battering, and preparing an early dinner. By 8:00 heavy wet clouds descended, with light rain starting that lasted on and off all night. Around 2 a.m., another downpour, but I was in dreamland and hardly noticed.
One of the themes of this trip was to disrupt “normal” (that is to say, predictable) time patterns that shape my life and experience. Mainly, to slow down and appreciate the wonder of the moment in such a dramatic location was a noble and accessible goal. To that end, I decided to write verse instead of a narrative, letting the lines, punctuation, and images take up as much time as a reader would allow. There are clunkers and lumps of coal, but there are also a few that ring true and clear after several readings.
And then it was morning.
On my first attempt at zazen,
sun crested the high eastern ridge
& was radiantly glorious
after last night’s storm,
leaving, in its wake,
flowing wisps of cloud.
Indeterminate, vapour really,
sun warm on my cheeks
as breath slows down mind,
suddenly barking bursts forth
from very near camp.
Two coyotes with much to say
on opposite sides of Island Lake,
the howls, yipping, barks and squeals
went on for an hour
celebrating the fine morning
or a tasty chipmunk
to break the fast.
After 2 hours on the high shining granite
(just below the pass seen above)
I finally appreciate the hugely diverse ridges,
valley lakes, streams rushing musically
though they cry “drought” in the lowlands;
it’s time to leave rock and attend water,
survey wet worlds at 8500 ft.
and see what flows within.
Rivulet from high springs,
firmly rooted to the granite flume,
Seated in zazen,
feet dangling in clear mountain lake,
a breeze flutters the surface.
Without leaving the premises
I try to breathe it in.
Eyes open, associations clear,
the reflected cedars
oscillate in harmony
with the sound-waves of the stream.
Not sure if I can say it
more simply than that
except to add
this all dazzles
on the mirror of the lake.
I make it back to camp around 2:30, clouds gathering and thunder distant. My little tent provided all the shelter I need and I am safe and content as yet another storm rolls over the ridges and into the enormous bowl of Island Lake. Bottom centre is my tent and campsite, not to be confused with boulders nearby.
On Wednesday, August 7th, I decide to make a run for the picturesque mountain to the north of Island Lake. Its pyramid shape is dramatic and distinct, and on the previous day’s hike I surveyed just how I might reach the top. The best route leads up the slope directly from my campsite. With daypack, lunch, ample water, umbrella and poncho, I’m ready to start the ascent…which goes much faster than anticipated. In 20 minutes, I’m on the ridge. In 35, I’ve scrambled over huge boulders and now face the mountain’s steep upward slope. In another 20, I’m scrambling out of scrub pine tree groves and stepping onto the lichen rocks that comprise the summit. In all directions, the clouds are distant and the views sublime.
Like most mountains in California and elsewhere, a summit log book is protected within a metal box once used to hold bullets. This particular log book is unique and entertaining, started by a person skilled in graphic arts and ready to show them off. There are sketches of mountains, roads in valleys, a truck filled with gear, then a page that christens the mountain with the name of “Righteous Mountain.” I like it because it shows creativity and resolve, unlike many of the boring names that ancient surveyors imposed.
But another party wants to claim the mountain for a dearly departed friend, naming it Mt. Ryan and announcing that, “call it what you will, the official name of this mountain is…”
Shortly after that, I read another entry that skewers both names: “I hearby dub this mountain Mt. Hard Boiled Egg in honor of the one I ate just now.”
One boy aged 12 writes a whole story on two pages, “the dragon slayer,” with accompanying illustrations of a canyon, vines, a flying wormish-looking beast. Meticulous printing in red ink.
“Lord, set this mountain apart for your glory. Come and meet the wandering hiker & set revival fire in our hearts.”
“Every summit is a good summit.”
“Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.” Frank Zappa
Multi-pitched chorus of sturdy flies
zipping and darting among summit rocks
such speed! what vibrato!
A tiger-wing butterfly floats through the scene,
just behind it, a little white one
flapping into being
the vast spaces of the summit
which do not crush or obscure
this delicate spirit
Lunch is smoked trout atop white goat-gouda cheese on a stale bagel, with trail mix and water. No complaints!
Timed departure from the summit:
A dance with big cumulus shade
washing over a million rocks
More to come on the next page.